five ways to photograph textured paintings for social media without a light tent

five ways to photograph textured paintings for social media without a light tent

I love the tactile, layered quality of textured paintings. Capturing that texture for social media can feel frustrating—flat phone photos that don't show depth, harsh shadows that swallow subtle glazes, or blown-out highlights that erase impasto. Over the years I've developed several straightforward approaches that work without a light tent, using things most of us already have: window light, reflectors, simple flashes, phone accessories and a couple of gentle post-processing habits. Here are five ways I regularly use to photograph textured paintings so the surface reads clearly online while still feeling true to the work.

Work with side light from a window

Natural light is my go-to. A north-facing window is perfect because it gives soft, cool, even light throughout the day. I position the painting so the window light hits it from the side at about 30–45 degrees. This accentuates texture without harsh shadows—impasto, brush marks and collage edges throw small, readable shadows that reveal depth.

Two practical tips:

  • Turn off any overhead room lights or mixed-temperature lamps that could create colour casts.
  • If the light is too strong, drop a thin curtain or a piece of baking paper over the window to diffuse it—this is a classic studio trick and it works brilliantly for controlled highlights.
  • For camera settings I usually use a tripod and shoot in RAW. On a mirrorless camera I aim for a low ISO (100–200), an aperture around f/8–f/11 for edge-to-edge sharpness, and adjust shutter speed accordingly. With a phone, lock exposure (tap-and-hold on iPhone) and gently lower exposure if highlights are threatening to clip.

    Use a cheap reflector to balance shadow

    Side light can be dramatic, but sometimes the shadow side becomes too deep. A small reflector placed opposite the window returns light into the shadow areas and keeps texture readable without flattening the surface. White foam core, silver car sunshades, or even a sheet of white paper do the job.

    How I set it up:

  • I place the painting on an easel or clamp it to a wall.
  • The window light hits from the left; on the right I prop up a white foam board at an angle that bounces light back into the painting.
  • I move the reflector nearer or further until the shadows feel natural—enough to show texture but not so much that the painting looks flat.
  • This is especially helpful when photographing textured works with deep grooves or heavy collage. The reflector unwraps those dark crevices so they read online.

    Low-oblique flash or off-camera flash for crisp texture

    If you have a small speedlight or a portable LED panel, directional flash can produce beautiful, crisp texture. The key is to place the light low and at an acute angle—almost grazing the surface. That grazing light creates long, revealing shadows that emphasise relief.

    Settings and practicalities:

  • Set flash power low—start around 1/8 or 1/16 and increase if needed. You want subtle modelling, not a spotlight.
  • Bounce or use a small diffuser if the light is too harsh; a piece of tracing paper over the flash softens edges without losing the tactile quality.
  • If you're using a continuous LED panel, move it closer to mimic grazing light and lower the colour temperature to match ambient light (daylight ~5600K feels neutral).
  • This method is fast and reproducible. I often use it when I need consistent results for a series of works or when shooting in the evening. A remote trigger and tripod make life easier.

    Make small rigs for close-ups and scale shots

    Showing both detail and scale is important for social media. People want to see the surface intimately but also understand the painting's size. I make two simple rigs that work without fancy equipment:

  • Detail rig: I attach my phone or camera to a small tripod and use a macro lens (or the phone's macro mode). I keep the light grazing the surface from one side, and I focus on a tactile area—thick paint, torn collage edge, or pronounced brushwork. Move the camera parallel to the surface to avoid perspective distortion.
  • Scale rig: I shoot a straight-on image from a distance that includes a bit of the environment (studio wall, part of an easel) or place a neutral object (a plain coffee cup, ruler) discreetly in the frame to communicate size. For square social media crops, frame slightly wider than you think you need and crop later.
  • When doing close-ups I pay attention to depth of field. A narrower aperture gives more of the surface in focus; if you want a shallow depth of field to isolate a texture patch, open up the aperture but be cautious—the fall-off can make parts of the texture unreadable.

    Capture texture with short video or cinemagraphs

    Sometimes a still image can't fully communicate surface qualities. Short video clips—5–10 seconds of a slow pan or a 3–4 second rack focus—can show how light plays across a textured surface in a way that feels immediate and tactile. Cinemagraphs (a mostly still image with a small looping motion) are another elegant option, for example a subtle shimmer of varnish or a brush-flick in the background.

    How I make brief texture videos:

  • Use a tripod and move the camera slowly, or use a small gimbal for a smoother slide.
  • Keep the lighting consistent—grazing light works wonderfully. Natural window light is often preferable because it looks soft and familiar on screen.
  • Shoot at 24–30fps and export a short looped clip. On Instagram I sometimes use the first frame as the post image and add the clip as the carousel's second item to give viewers the option to watch texture in motion.
  • Quick editing tips to preserve texture

    Post-processing should enhance, not invent. My edit workflow focuses on clarity and faithful colour:

  • Shoot RAW where possible. That gives me the most leeway to recover highlights and shadows without introducing artifacts.
  • Adjust exposure conservatively—reduce highlights slightly to keep impasto from blowing out, and lift shadows just enough to reveal detail.
  • Increase clarity or texture sliders sparingly. A small boost (+5 to +15) in clarity can make brushwork pop; too much creates halos and an artificial look.
  • Use local adjustments: apply sharpening and clarity to textured areas only, not flat swathes of colour.
  • Soft-proof on your phone and desktop—view images on the devices you intend to post from to check colour and contrast.
  • Finally, remember framing and orientation for social platforms: vertical images occupy more feed real estate, but square crops are safe. I usually upload a vertical crop and include a landscape detail as a second image in the carousel to show context.

    These five approaches—window side light, reflectors, grazing flash, simple rigs, and short video—are interchangeable and scalable. I mix them depending on the painting, the studio setup and how much time I have. None require a light tent, and all aim to communicate the physicality of the work honestly. If you'd like, I can walk through a live example with a painting you have in mind and suggest a setup tailored to its surface and colour palette.


    You should also check the following news:

    Techniques

    step-by-step: creating luminous glazes with acrylics on prepared canvas

    02/12/2025

    I often return to glazing with acrylics when I want colour depth that feels almost like light passing through layers — that luminous, jewel-like...

    Read more...
    step-by-step: creating luminous glazes with acrylics on prepared canvas
    Techniques

    turning tiny studio corners into efficient workflow zones for mixed-media practice

    02/12/2025

    Working in a compact studio doesn’t have to feel like a compromise. Over the years I’ve learned that small corners, properly thought through,...

    Read more...
    turning tiny studio corners into efficient workflow zones for mixed-media practice